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bittersweet goodbyes

It feels almost overtly symbolic that tonight of all nights the sky has opened and rain falls heavily on our dry village. It’s the fourth night of torrential downpours in the past two weeks and it states with almost absolute certainty that the end of the dry season has come. For the fisherman it’s the … Continue reading

One village… two worlds.

Batukaras is a pretty spectacular place, there is no doubting that. It is a place where dark chocolate sand meets the sapphire sea. Every traveller I have spoken to who has stumbled into this village seems to have been enchanted by its beauty and hypnotised by its laid back attitude and general air of ambivalence… … Continue reading

Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore…

It was a normal sunny afternoon in Batukaras, and we were finding a little solace from the heat by lying on the cool tiled floor of our little village house. ‘Thuck, thuck, thuck…’ The noise stopped, so I ignored it, closed my eyes again… but… ‘Thuck, thuck, thuck…’ There it goes again. We got up … Continue reading

just another week in paradise…

Living here certainly has its ups and downs. A man walked into my house last night with a toddler (they don’t stand much on ceremony here), because the baby wanted to see a white person… the baby then preceeded to cry as the man tried to push her closer to me. It can’t help but … Continue reading

When the world is pure and blue and quiet…

The world as I once knew it has shifted, it is undeniable the change and it is unavoidable the changes that it has made on me as a person. Batukaras has been a whirlwind for the two months that I’ve already been home. There have been ups and downs, there have been tears and laughter … Continue reading

On a dusty day, a union formed…

We were out of place right from the beginning. It was clearly us and them. We are different, there is no doubt about that, from what is the norm in this small dusty beachside town. A white girl marrying a local boy… is more than enough to encourage a few raised eyebrows and a lot … Continue reading

I love you, for showing me the view…

I’m coming to the end of my year in Batukaras. I only have four more days until my bags will be packed, and I will board a bus for Bandung, ending my long term stay in the village. But it’s not as final as it all sounds, I’ll be back before the year officially closes … Continue reading

You know you’re a local when…

I am nearing my 11th month of living in this remote fishing village, somewhere on the coast of west java, Indonesia… and I've changed. The very fabric of my person has changed, the way I move, the way I act, the way I talk… has all developed to assimilate into my environment. I like to … Continue reading

A white ash blanket…

Indonesia is known for its suseptability to natural disasters, and this week has certainly been no exception. Located in what is known as the pacific ring-of-fire, Indonesia is particularly prone to volcanic activity, earthquakes and tsunamis, and in the past two days we received the full trifecta. The earthquake hit late on Monday afternoon in West Sumatra, causing … Continue reading

Idul Fitri – our village transformed…

With the end of Ramadan, comes the beginning of Idul Fitri, the Christmas like celebration of life, forgiveness and religion. The end of fasting and quiet gives way to crazy crowds, endless supplies of food and thousands of people flocking to our tiny village and crowding our one street and stretch of beautiful beach. Batukaras is a … Continue reading