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We wait, I write…

growing in my garden...

There has been no surf since last Tuesday, so things are getting a little antsy in the village. There is only so long we can all sit around the restro talking shit – although we do manage to do a very good job of it for at least three hours every afternoon. I’m in the process of deciding which board to buy, I’m in between two at the moment, and the main thing that is really up for debate is the size, one is a long board and the other is a mini mal – a size in between long and short boarding. I don’t think I’ll ever be a short-boarder – so, I won’t need to think about purchasing one of those, but the decision is now a little difficult. It’s like I have to think into the future and decide what sort of surfer I’m going to be, will I want to upgrade to a mini mal after I’ve tried out the long board? Or will I just want to hone my skills and learn some cool tricks on the long board? I don’t know. It’s a hard decision. And one that I will probably ponder a little further before I come to any definitive conclusion.

I’ve begun quite an enormous writing project. There is something about writing that I love and hate at the same time. I love it when it works. Which is often the case – because I’m of the school of ‘if I have nothing to write, I don’t write.’  However, there is one major problem that I find attaches itself like a leech to me when ever I do write – and that is a confusion in my every day life. From day-to-day, I find a lot of my regular relationships, discussions, attitudes have changed and I get stuck in a rift of words and ideas and thoughts that aren’t mine but instead related to the piece I am writing. it can get very difficult.

I’m there right now, narrowly walking a tightrope between the world of the sane and that of the completely nuts, I can only hope that when I do slip and fall (which is absolutely inenvitable), it’ll be onto the right side. Whichever that may be…

Until something happens… barefoot inked.

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Comments
4 Responses to “We wait, I write…”
  1. Douja says:

    This is breathtakingly beautiful!!
    You are such a talented writer, keep it up 🙂

  2. Roshi says:

    nah get a mini mal!!! just make sure it’s not tooooo wide otherwise that makes for a bit of awkward sitting/balancing in the ocean waiting for a set =) good luck tho! Long boards are heaps of fun too and easier in the beginning!

  3. Roshi says:

    Oh and you know what they say….once you lose your mind, you’ll find yourself. (this is Rochelle by the way;p)

  4. clrst says:

    I’m really enjoying reading your blog! I didn’t realize there even was surf in Batukaras in March. I thought it sees swell starting more in April, with the start of the dry season.

    Thanks for the wonderful blog. I’ll be curious to catch up with your posts and read about the excellent travels. Cheers.

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