A morning surf. The day awaits.

This mornings surf was not that great. Good company though. Some new friends and I floated out on the ocean at about 6.45am waiting for the mornings surf to roll in.

It’s a pretty spectacular time to be out on the water. The rising sun shoots crystals across the top of the bottle blue ocean that blind you if you look at them for too long. Everything sparkles bright and you get those little glow worms around the corners of your eyes… Floating out there, waking up slowly, while flying fish leap and dance and play around me and over the board is pretty magic. We bobbed around watching the first of the fishermen making their way across the ocean back to the other side of the bay to drag in their catch and feed their families.

I love the little fish that jump around us. They are sleek and sequined in silver and are often followed by bigger fish who want to devour them for breakfast. The leap and play like it’s a dance, each knowing the role and each knowing their step and never going out of formation. Like following in the footsteps of their ancestors, dancers who have carved the way through this spectacular ocean for centuries gone by.

As for the surf. It was pretty small and a little choppy when it came in. And, I was pretty pathetic today. Whether I was still asleep or not, something definately wasn’t working for me. It’s like I’d forgotten everything I learnt before. Everytime I caught a wave I either nose dived or just wiped out spectacularaly for no particular reason. My friends are very kind, and continue to encourage me, and by the end I’d caught three or four good waves and managed to remain standing for at least 15 seconds… which might not seem like much to you guys. But in my world, times slows when I’m on a wave, and every second longer is worth it. I want to be able to ride a wave the whole stretch of the bay. It’s done often. And that’s the goal. It’ll take me months to get there I imagine.

I have a shock of blue and purple bruises down my left leg, like some sort of enlarged rash. It’s a combination of my general clumsiness, body rafting and of course, my less than perfect surfing… it’s very attractive in its wide range of colours.

As I sit here in my lounge room that is quickly filling up with the heat of the sun, soaking in my towel and feeling the itch of the chocolate sand on my skin, I know I should go and shower. But I can’t help first being faced with another question. Do I buy a board? I wouldn’t mind finding a second-hand long board and buying it so I can surf whenever I want to. Also, there is always a borrowed feeling on someone elses board. Like the waves aren’t quite yours. I’m not sure how else to explain it – considering I’ve never surfed on my own board, but I imagine it would feel quite different. It’s sort of like borrowing someone elses car, you are extra careful, always cautious and you don’t take as many risks – though with driving taking risks is not really a good idea – but I think the metaphor works all the same.  

So, do I buy one? I guess that answer will only come if I find a second hand board for the right price and at the right time – and if I get some work in the near future. But I’ll put my feelers out there for the time being. If any of you out there in Cyber land know anyone who is selling a long board in West Java – preferably in my village. Let me know. I think the odds of that are slim to none. But the mantra has to stay the same. No work, no board. Simple as that.

It’s only 9am. I wonder what the day has in store for us all…

Barefoot and bruised.

One Response to “A morning surf. The day awaits.”
  1. zahirah says:

    I remember the hideous bruises from my last surfing lesson, years ago. They were pretty impressive. Keep up the work! You’ll get it.

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